Leigh Orpheus Male Voice Choir Concert tour of Tuscany
Saturday 25th – Friday 31st October 2008
Diary compiled by Margaret Gabe
Saturday 25th
There we were, gathered by the gates of King John School as instructed, ready for departure at 3pm. Unfortunately we had been unaware that Shipwrights Drive was having a new path laid directly opposite the school which meant that when the coach arrived it had to stop half a mile down the road for fear of causing traffic chaos.
So we trundled our cases along to the coach and chose our seats while the baggage-handlers attended to the bags. Haydn Price and Elaine, however, were told they should be on the mini-bus, largely because it would have been difficult for Haydn to fulfil his role as mini-bus luggage-handler from the comfort of the coach. But shortly after alighting, they reappeared, not needed on the mini-bus after all. I had been charged with collecting some outstanding monies for the two meals at Hotel La Pia which gave me the chance to learn a few names of unfamiliar faces.
We set off on schedule and, after an uneventful journey, arrived at Gatwick North Terminal at 4.15pm. Our marshall, Mick Jacks, organized our group check-in at D and we proceeded through Security where David Blackmore seemed to be the only suspicious character, having to remove his shoes to be allowed through. Bob and I noticed an unattended case sitting on the floor which we reported to a member of staff and then hurried away. Our BA flight was due to leave at 6.55pm so we had some time to kill which variously involved meandering around shops and visiting eating outlets and bars.
Once on the plane we discovered that our seats had been pre-allocated but many couples were not seated together. This involved a certain amount of shuffling around to achieve the best result. Ed very kindly agreed to change places with me and I managed to work out why his seat wouldn’t stay upright – his muscly thighs were pressing on the button on the arm-rest. Jean and Jan Stanwell Smith didn’t bother to rearrange their seats and spent the entire flight one sitting at the back and one at the front of the plane.
Take off 7.15pm (20 mins. late)
Our group were the envy of Group A, who had flown with Easyjet, as we were provided with free sandwiches and drinks on the flight. Arriving at Pisa Airport at 9.45pm local time it didn’t seem worth altering our watches as the clocks were due to go back an hour that night. On visiting the toilet at the airport Alistair commented that you knew you’d arrived in Italy because of the smell in the Gents.
Our guide, Silvia, directed us to a double-decker bus and during the journey, she outlined our itinerary for the week. We arrived at Hotel La Pia, Montecatini Terme, at 10.45pm. Haydn’s name didn’t appear on the hotel list and had to be written in by hand. While some of the group gravitated to the bar after unpacking, I went for a stroll in the warm evening air, passing Martin and Pat on their way to visit La Pia to check on our safe arrival
2
Sunday 26th
“Oh no, it’s raining!” This was the immediate thought of those of us with rooms at the front of the hotel on waking. But, on opening the curtains, we found a beautiful blue sky and the “rain” was actually a fountain playing in the pretty square in front of the hotel. Perhaps it’s just as well we didn’t know this would be the last day of fine weather!
Mrs. Maria La Pia provided us with a substantial breakfast of cold meats, cheese, yogurt, rolls, croissants, fresh fruit salad, cereals, fruit juice, cake and hard-boiled egg, again the envy of those guests in the Palma Oriente.
At 8.35am we boarded our bus en route for Pisa and took the opportunity to give Fred his 75th birthday card which everyone had secretly signed. He was delighted, especially when Silvia (our guide) promised him a kiss. However, Silvia then chickened out saying she didn’t want to upset “Mr. Fred’s ladies”
During the entire journey to Pisa, Silvia demonstrated her encyclopaedic knowledge of the history of Tuscany including how the Pisans and Luccans were very “affectionated” to their home town. Silvia had many endearing sayings like that. After running the gauntlet of the African bead-sellers and transferring to the shuttle bus, we spent 1 1/2 hrs. in the Miracoli Square, admiring the stunning architecture of the Cathedral, Baptistry and Leaning Tower. Entry to the Cathedral was free on Sunday mornings, but we were disappointed to find that most of it was cordoned off and we were confined to a very small part of it.
The weather was perfect- hot and sunny. Robin even bought himself a panama hat which we felt sure he would make full use of in the week to come. What a mistaka to maka! Whilst waiting for our group to reconvene Fred finally got his birthday kiss from Silvia – twice.
From Pisa we boarded the shuttle bus, where Silvia jostled aside a group of Chinese tourists, and set off for Lucca, once again given a potted history of the ongoing battle between the Pisani and the Luccans. We were led on foot through the narrow streets of Lucca to the Chiesa San Michele (venue for the choir’s concert later that afternoon) where a wedding had just taken place and then to the Piazza Amfiteatro where the choir sang a few songs, attracting the attention of some heads in upstairs windows. Unfortunately we found huge white marquees in the middle of every piazza in Lucca, in preparation for a Festival of Comics & Games due to take place in November. Much to our disappointment they completely ruined the ambience and the views.
Some of us then found the Café di Simo (allegedly Puccini’s favourite) to partake of a 10E buffet lunch, followed by a delicious ice-cream and a 1 ½ hour guided tour of Lucca’s main sights.
So much beauty, so little time!
The men had their sound-check at 4pm while the WAGS scattered to various cafes to pass the hour before the concert began at 5pm at Chiesa San Michele. A local gospel choir entertained us first with a very lively conductor who encouraged full audience participation. He even went dancing down the aisle at one point. I was confident that David Clarke wouldn’t feel obliged to follow suit. When our men started singing we were immediately aware of the tremendous echo and David had to work very hard to achieve the best sound for the gratifyingly
3
large audience. Following the successful concert we were pleased to relinquish the rather hard pews and walked back to the bus through the darkened streets of the city.
Once back in Montecatini we dispersed to various restaurants for a meal, many of us deciding upon a nearby pizzeria where I tasted my first pizza of the holiday – delicious. Vanessa and Colin proved to be very good companions for that meal. After that a large group of us gathered in the bar at La Pia in honour of Fred’s birthday, drinking and cracking jokes till the small hours. I’m tempted to omit the fact that I used the rudest word of the night while telling my joke, but I was reminded of it next morning so word had obviously got around.
Monday 27th.
After the previous hot day we awoke to disappointingly grey skies. With the onset of Autumn Uncle La Pia was busy sweeping up the fallen leaves from the road immediately outside the hotel.
Following breakfast our bus left at 9am for Florence when Silvia again recounted the history of this”most beautiful city”. By now our brains had almost reached saturation point with Tuscan history and we hoped there wouldn’t be a test at the end of the week. The bus wound its way up the hill past some large villas to the Michelangelo Square from where there was a spectacular, panoramic view over the city. A large statue of one of the replicas of Michelangelo’s David stood in the centre of the square along with kiosks selling souvenirs.
Twenty minutes there was long enough after which the bus drove into Florence and, because we were on a Lazzi bus, we were accorded VIP status and allowed to drive through the narrowest of streets to the railway station. Most of the ladies decided they needed the toilet so Silvia led us to the underground facilities where a lady in a blue uniform was rushing backwards and forwards between the large queues forming outside the ladies and gents toilets ensuring that no-one escaped buying their 60c ticket. Barbara wasn’t feeling too well but after a drink of water and a tablet she was fit to continue. We were all about to move off for the guided tour when Jean SS realized Jan was missing, a little worrying following his concussion of a few weeks earlier. However, he eventually appeared having been found by the second group who had just arrived on their bus.
We then split into 3 groups and were taken on a tour of the main sights of the city including the Duomo, baptistry, campanile and Ponte Vecchio. An incident of “bridge-rage” occurred whilst we were on the Ponte Vecchio for, having been warned of the possibility of being robbed by imposters joining our group as tourists, Alistair spotted two shady characters listening to Silvia and took it upon himself to muscle his way between them and Silvia telling them to b----- off. They obviously understood the sentiment if not the English, but an ugly scene was avoided by a few words from Silvia and we walked away unscathed.
The Uffizzi museum was closed on Mondays so we were saved from the long queues that there might have been stretching along the road. In the Piazza della Signoria we saw many wonderful statues but sadly not David as he was covered up for restoration.
We then had some free time from 1-4.15pm when we found a café for a pasta lunch and returned to take a closer look at some of the notable sights, starting with the Straw Market. Vanessa was spotted there buying a leather jacket and later we heard about Mavis who, whilst also looking at leather jackets, had been hit on the head by a handbag dislodged from the display. Apparently, when it came on to rain, the stallholder had inadvertently knocked it off
4
whilst pulling the awning over to protect his goods. Mavis held her head feigning injury so the stallholder reduced the price of her jacket by 120E. Lucky Mavis!
Whilst we were inside the enormous Cathedral soaking up the atmosphere and deciding not to attempt the climb to the cupola, the rain started and on emerging we found the sellers, in an opportunistic moment, had swapped from beads to umbrellas. Did they ever actually sell anything?
We recrossed the Ponte Vecchio, narrowly missing being mown down by a speeding scooter and walked along to the Pitti Palace-a rather unspectacular building we thought. On Silvia’s recommendation we took the escalators to the terrace café at the top of the Dept. store to look at the view but, by this time, low cloud was obscuring the distant hills and a steady light rain had set in, rather spoiling the view. Little did we know we were to become very familiar with Tuscan rain during the next few days!
We made our way back to meet the group by the Campanile and gathered on the Cathedral steps for a Group B (standing for baritones, basses & best) photo in front of the beautifully decorated main doors. When walking back to the bus we noticed that Silvia had managed to find a maroon umbrella, specially chosen by her to match the choir’s uniform. Once on the bus she gave our ears and brains a rest and let us sleep on the return journey to Montecatini.
After aperitifs in the bar, the Palma Oriente group descended on our hotel for a meal of lasagne, roast chicken and creamy Tuscan dessert. Maria and her staff were shown great appreciation by the diners and the copious amounts of wine that had been consumed resulted in a few songs conducted by John Riddle, David having beaten a hasty retreat when it became obvious what was to happen. The singing continued in the bar where Bob taught “Susie” to the assembled crowd. It was decided this should be included in the repertoire at No. 365. Serena and Elizabeth Dunlop sung an Italian duet for us before they returned to their hotel, which elicited much applause and the emergence of Maria from her office.
David Blackmore and Avril were attempting to get each other tiddly by surreptitiously pouring their wine into each other’s glasses. I think Avril had the most success in her mission. Rumour has it that Barry, or it may have been Fred, allegedly fell over preparing for bed and lay paralytic on the floor.
And so another day drew to a close.
Tuesday 28th.
Another grey start to the day with just the odd hint of blue in the sky.
At 9.30am we set off on foot from the hotel with a German lady, Ruth, as our guide of Montecatini Terme. She was equally as informative as Silvia had been so we learnt a lot about the town in which we were “living” (as Silvia would say). Ruth took us into the Town Hall and the Excelsior Spa, (the architecture of which was a mixture of old beauty and 60s brutality) where we saw the room in which tonight’s afterglow would take place. As we continued along the Via Verdi the first spots of rain fell, quickly becoming a downpour. Having paused to look at an interesting metal mobile sculpture on the central reservation we hurried for the shelter of the Tettucio Spa. We could only imagine how the architecture, the beautiful frescoes and the fountains would have appeared on a hot, sunny day but today, after a quick taste of the salty
5
waters we headed for the grandeur of the welcoming café where we were offered Italian champagne, wine, fruit juice and bowls of crisps.
After the refreshments the choir entertained the visitors with three songs, the first of which, ”Oh Lord, what a morning” seemed particularly appropriate for today, with the weather conditions as they were. But “Siyahamba” finally lost the competition with the rain for, during the quieter section, the deluge was definitely winning.
We couldn’t leave the spa without a visit to the renowned toilets, each cubicle equipped with toilet, bidet, shower hose and basin. In fact bidets were a feature of many toilets we visited this week- I dread to imagine the queues that would have ensued if every lady had taken advantage of that facility!
At around this time the thunder started, encouraging some people to linger a while soaking up (I use that term advisedly) the atmosphere of the spa, hoping that the rain would soon ease off. By the look of the granite grey skies this was a forlorn hope and so a few of us braved the elements to make the return walk to the town for a light lunch.
We had free time during the afternoon but as the rain continued to fall it was difficult to be at all adventurous. I spent some time trying to dry out my trousers and shoes with the hairdryer and I imagine many others were engaged in the same task.
A late concert had been planned for 9pm that evening but we were not hopeful of a large audience due to the weather. However, the Excelsior Spa began to fill up and Maria La Pia was kept busy finding extra chairs for the 230ish strong audience. Silvia had explained that Italians were not renowned for their punctuality and so it was tonight when “Italian minutes” stretched to a start time of about 9.20pm. The concert commenced with a number of songs sung in English by a local choir, D’Altro Canto. This was followed by the LOMVC in their first set with particular appreciation shown for Kings of Swing. A group of Welsh children then performed a number of Welsh clog dances, introduced by their violinist. Holly obligingly translated into Italian but I felt an English translation would also have been helpful. Various pictures and LOMVC shields were then presented before the LOMVC returned to the stage for their second set of songs. Unfortunately, many Italians had decided this was the end of the concert and got up to go, leaving gaping holes in the audience. I told the people sitting near to us that there was actually more to come and they spread the word to others nearby who sat down again. But maybe it had been their intention all along to watch only the dancers because, during the penultimate song, they suddenly stood up and, noisily scraping chairs across the floor, they left.
However, those people remaining thoroughly enjoyed the concert, (even “Myfanwy” was a success), likewise the afterglow which took place in the older spa room. Maria and her staff provided the plentiful food and drink and the two choirs combined in a rendition of Siyahamba which David reluctantly agreed to conduct. The Welsh violinist played some typically welsh songs that we joined in enthusiastically and then we made our way back to our hotel, the rain having abated for the time being. We went straight to bed but we could hear Louisa’s raucous laughter as proof that some of our group were still making use of the bar.
6
Wednesday 29th
A free day.
Once more the skies were grey and threatening rain. Bob and I wanted to walk to Montecatini Alto but, because Maria had warned us that the path may be muddy due to the rain, we took the road instead. The downpour started before we had even reached the Tettucio Spa but we ploughed on regardless as we needed the exercise. About 1 1/4 hours later we reached the town having spent most of that time walking in what seemed like a river. My shoes and trousers were saturated, but just before arriving at the town the rain stopped and we actually started to feel hot from our exertions. Other members of our group had arrived by Funicular but Tony & Carol Grellier climbed up the path having had the foresight to bring more substantial footwear.
What a delightful little village. We visited the church first and watched the Nativity taking place complete with rippling Sea of Galilee, a very wobbly Angel Gabriel and the star represented by a flying saucer. When the rain started again we took shelter in one of the many cafes lining the square with Martin, Pat, Mr. & Mrs Wood senior, and the Downings. We heard how Fred had disgraced himself in the shop by knocking a Pinocchio figure off the wall whilst opening a large map. I must admit I may have nightmares about Pinocchio as he was to be seen everywhere! I couldn’t persuade Bob to venture out into the rain again so I explored the rest of the town on my own, discovering the old church tower which housed a 6hour clock.
We needed to make the return journey by funicular no later than 1 o’clock and, with so many of our group in the town and the inclement weather, thought it advisable to try for the 12.30pm. Having bought our ticket we had only a short wait before getting on but more and more people were arriving and the carriage was quickly full to overflowing. The last to come on board were Daphne and Peter who had battled horizontal rain when the wind suddenly increased, drenching them from head to foot. Daphne amused us by taking off her shoes and pouring the water out of them. Eventually the driver closed the doors and locked us in, quickly transforming the carriage into a sauna. Despite wiping the steamy windows it was impossible to see anything downhill due to the low cloud.
After a long delay (those Italian minutes again!) we eventually left at 12.45pm and, on reaching the bottom, discovered that some people had had to brave the elements standing outside at the back. We also found that the rain had been so heavy that it had completely flooded the road and many cars were turning round to avoid it. One lady driver did make it through but found she had picked up a large piece of metal that had wedged itself under her front bumper. Bill and Linda, who were wearing crocs, rolled up their trousers and waded knee deep through the floods, but most of us took the drier option of finding higher ground.
After lunch at the pizzeria with Erica, Robin, Rita, David and Barbara we were quite relieved to find that the walking tour of Pistoia had been cancelled due to bad weather. A notice was displayed that read “Choir to go in uniforms – naked with umbrellas” Then another notice, “This is a joke”. You can’t be too careful! This gave me the chance to put the hairdryer to good use again drying off my trousers, but this time my shoes were beyond redemption.
At 7 pm we left for Pistoia for that evening’s concert, the last of the tour. Silvia was her usual informative self with the occasional “Mama Mia” when an Italian driver behaved in their habitual manner. She had told us that the three regions of Italy regarded traffic lights in the following ways: in the North they were imperative, in Central Italy they were facultative (no I
7
haven’t heard that word before, either) and in the South they were decorative. Unfortunately, when we got off the bus, Bob found he had been sitting on a wet seat so his nether regions felt uncomfortably damp.
Silvia led us to the church of San Andrea which, at first sight, seemed unused and musty. While the choir had their sound-check, Silvia took some of us ladies on a brief visit to the Cathedral square which, being floodlit in a soft orangey light, was unexpectedly beautiful.
Back to the church and the concert began on time, with a few natives included in the audience. The acoustics proved to be excellent and I felt this was the best concert despite the hard seats. As at the first concert the Dunlop family made their contribution to the programme with the bell-like quality of their voices and all agreed it had brought the tour to a successful finale.
On reaching Hotel La Pia once more, we repaired to the bar where the Welsh group had been enjoying a noisy evening. Haydn and Louisa (or Edna as she is sometimes known) took to the floor in a dance where for some strange reason Louisa tried to head-butt Haydn in the groin. We spent a happy couple of hours singing and exchanging jokes before bed beckoned to the familiar sounds of thunder and rain.
Thursday 30th
A free day.
Our groups went their various ways today – some on the Chianti Classico trip which proved to be very popular and during which my husband, Bob, got married to Silvia (only in his dreams!) I said she was welcome to him; some for a return visit to Florence (they must have touched the boar’s nose in the market on Monday); and some, like me, for another look at Pistoia to see it in daylight. The day got off to a shaky start when Jo Doyle went missing en route to the railway station but eventually appeared along the track having taken a different route from us. Maria had given Sulveig a timetable but when a train pulled into the station which didn’t appear on the timetable we were a little slow to decide that we did actually need to get on it. So slow, in fact, that the doors were already closing before John Judd and Jo were safely inside. However, we eventually managed to haul them in and later found out that John Riddle had jumped into a different carriage. On stopping at Serrevalle Pistoiese he thought he needed to alight there but couldn’t find a way to open the doors. A helpful local could see his agitation and mistakenly directed him to a toilet, by which time the train had left the station so he had no option but to reach Pistoia safely.
We spent a relaxed day visiting the beautiful buildings in the “Hidden jewel” of Pistoia, sampling coffee and thick hot chocolate at the bar of a café, soaking up the ambience of the vegetable market and enjoying being dry – apart from the occasional shower! At lunch time we ate at a café in Sala Square where John & Iris Judd persuaded the waiter to divulge the recipe of the Monestra di Panna (or Zuppe di Panna according to Maria) which some of us had chosen. It was a thick soup made with vegetables cooked with bread and proved to be a very substantial lunch.
A return visit to the Chiesa San Andrea was requested and, on entering the quiet of the darkened interior, the haunting strains of Lascia Chio Panga could be heard. John and Jo looked
incredulous and set about finding the source of the sound. After a few moments they tracked it down to a pillar, behind which was John Riddle, whistling tunefully.
8
That evening the entire group once again assembled in La Pia for our farewell meal consisting of Tuscan appetizers, Crespelle alla Valdostana and pasta with artichoke sauce, roast pork with baked potatoes & fennel au gratin and another Tuscan dessert which was paraded around the room prior to being served.
Following the meal the Dunlop children were each given an envelope by Martin, accompanied by a kiss for the girls and a handshake for Ewan, for their part in the concerts. A vote of thanks and a collection were given to Maria and her staff for looking after us so well and the evening continued with a version of Lascio Chio Panga (rewritten by Bob) which was surprisingly successful given that there had been no rehearsal at all. Other versions were then produced either with different words or to an alternative tune – but none as good as the original!
Fred called upon Bob to introduce No. 365 in the repertoire which he did by referring to the Swansea tradition of calling David Clarke, Dave much to everyone’s amusement. I was asked to lead the singing as I had originally taught it to Bob many years ago and I think Dave may have agreed to include this item in future concerts – or was that just a bad dream?
John Riddle had been walking around all evening with a label on his back stating “I’m FREE. Apply within”. Not sure if he had any takers.
In the bar afterwards the merriment continued, fuelled by the double dose of alcohol which had been consumed on the Chianti trip and at the meal. Bob was encouraged to show us his Primark boxer shorts, which caused great hilarity when we noticed he had them on back to front, followed by Haydn’s designer variety, but when Fred stood up, Louisa sat him down again preventing him from displaying his all. She then brought out an apron of Michelangelo’s David and proceeded to tie it round Bob who paraded around the bar and lounge having taken off his trousers. I must say it made me quite nostalgic for the years before middle age took its toll!
Still pouring with rain when we climbed upstairs to bed.
Friday 31st
Considering the alcohol consumed the previous day an impressive number of people appeared for breakfast, including Bob. The source of the loud crash heard in the night by a number of guests was revealed to have been Bob falling off the loo and crashing into the plastic stool - though he insists the stool attacked him. Nobody, of course, made any gleeful remarks about the Palma Oriente group having to leave at 6am; we just felt very sorry for them and glad that we had been chosen for Group B.
Louisa found a silver ring hidden in a small posy of flowers on her plate at breakfast time. Apparently other gifts had appeared on previous days but today’s gift was to mark the engagement of Louisa to John Riddle.
It seemed that Louisa (Edna) was not the only person who had a pseudonym. Fred thought Bob’s name was Bill up to Thursday. Arthur spoke to Mick Jacks about a Terry but Mick said there was no Terry on his list. However there was a James and on further investigation it was discovered that Terry/James answers to both. Just to confuse matters further they’ve now called him Eric.
9
There was quite a bit of time to kill before the bus was to depart at 1.30 for Pisa Airport (Galileo Galilei). Rain was still falling lightly but some people braved the wet while others squeezed into the bar and lounge to read, play cards, write postcards, etc.
About ¼ hour before we were due to leave Maria helpfully suggested we could have used the TV room to be more comfortable. There was the usual last minute rush for the loo where I encountered Eric/Terry/James sheepishly emerging from the Ladies.
On the bus Jackie Jacks gave our heartfelt thanks to Silvia for being such a terrific guide and, on accepting the collection we had made for her, Silvia thanked us for being such a lovely group – her last of the season. She told us she is to be married one year from today and invited the LOMVC to sing at her reception. It was a somewhat sad journey to the airport, passing fields of standing water, testament to how much rain we had suffered and knowing that the holiday was nearing its end. Mick Jacks continued in the week’s tradition of banging his head repeatedly on the low ceiling and, having got off the bus, at Silvia’s request the choir sang a shaky last song. David would have been proud (!) but Silvia was visibly moved by the performance and said her goodbyes to us in tears.
Getting through Security in the airport was very slow as the machine seemed extremely sensitive, everyone setting it off and needing to be body-searched. An announcement over the tannoy requested that “passenger John Riddle please proceed to Passport Control” but he wouldn’t reveal why he got special treatment, only that it could be connected to M15.
Our flight left at 4.45pm climbing up through the clouds to reach a long-forgotten sun which created a beautiful red glow in the layers of cloud at sunset. We landed with a bump at Gatwick at 5.25 GMT.
Baggage collected and coach boarded we set off at 6.30pm for Benfleet. What a joy to see stars in the sky and dry roads! An accident on the London-bound carriageway of the A13 near Pitsea caused some interest but we arrived uneventfully at King John School where the mini-bus party were waiting for the key to retrieve their cars.
Our holiday was finished but for David and Rita their troubles were just beginning as they found their car window and wing-mirror had been smashed.
PS
Many thanks to everyone involved in the organization of this most successful concert tour.
